I feel one with nature because there is no sign of society (besides the refugios) at all. My backpack is kind of heavy, but the idea of being able to survive for a week with just the things you carry on your back gives a very good and strong feeling. Torres del Paine, here we come!

What do you mean: “I did the W?”

You’ve probably never heard about doing the “W” if you have never traveled to Chilean Patagonia before.That’s absolutely okay. I had never heard of this “W” thing either before someone explained me about it when I was in Argentina.

The “W” actually is the physical shape of the hiking route that goes through the National Park of Torres del Paine. It is a pretty amazing route which takes up to five days or if you like to add a day for some rest you can do it in more days. For the inexperienced hiker it’s doable, but if you’re up for something a bit more intense then you’ll probably want to go for “the Circuit” which takes up to nine days. As the name “Circuit” says, you’ll go around the entire trail and pass the “W” as well.

How to arrive at the park

Get yourself over to the end of the world, literately! If you’re in Argentina and you’re okay with the amazingly comfortable bus transport, then take one of the semi cama buses to Puerto Natales in Chile. If you prefer to fly, then you should take a flight to Punta Arenas and take the bus (about five hours) from the airport to Puerto Natales.

Once you’re in Puerto Natales you want to book one night at a nice hostel so that you can organize your hiking trip on your first day in the afternoon. I highly recommend you to visit the ‘the 3 o’clock talk’ at the Erratic Rock. There you’ll get all the information you need about the “W” for free! Someone there will explain about the camping gear you’ll need, the food you should bring, the route you could take and how to survive the Patagonian weather! After that you should visit the supermarkets – and camp gear rental shops if necessary – before closing time which is about 9pm. Then you can start the “W” the next morning.

Day 1 – Glacier Grey

Start by leaving very early in the morning from the only bus station of Puerto Natales named “Rodoviario”. You can buy the bus ticket at your hostel the day before. There are well organized buses that bring people to the entrance of the National Park of Torres del Paine. From there you have two options. Either start on the East side or on the West side of the park. I went from West to East, so that’s starting in Refugio Paine Grande where you’ll arrive to after having been on the boat.

When you arrive to the park you’ll have to pay the entrance fee which is CLP $18.000. After that, don’t get out of the bus immediately, but wait for it to bring you closer to the lake. There, get on the boat. You’ll have to buy a ticket during the boatride which costs CLP $12.000.

Tip for the boat ride! You’ll see everyone standing in line to be first to get on the boat, but you don’t want to do that.
Firstly, you’ll bag will be on the bottom of the pile of bags if you enter first and once you arrive to Paine Grande you’ll be the last one to get off the boat since your bag is still on the bottom of this huge pile of backpacks.
Secondly, once the boat leaves, the upper deck get’s opened and there’s where you’ do want to be the first to find a good spot on top of the boat’s deck for an amazing view. If you enter as one of the last persons on the boat you’ll be able to make your way to the upper deck more quickly and enjoy these amazing views. It is quite windy though on top of the boat, but you’ll have that during your entire hike anyway!

Happy campers!

Once you’re at the Paine Grande refugio after leaving the boat, buy your last piece of cake and make a bathroom stop before starting your hike. You’ll get to know the extreme Patagonian wind directly as it gets quite windy at the first part of the hike.

After about 3,4 hours (without breaks that is) you’ll see the Grey glacier in the distance and that means that you’re close to the campsite. One more half an hour to go and you’ll be able to set up camp! It costs about CLP $5.000 per person to spend the night at the camp site of Grey in your own tent.

Glacier Grey

The view from the camp site at Grey

Day 2 – Italiano

After breakfast leave Grey and what you actually do today is walk the exact way back to the Paine Grande Refugio. That’s what this route does, it brings you up hill and down hill on the same route in the beginning, because you start at the bottom part of the “W”.

Once you’re back at Paine Grande, after about 3 hours (you’ll be faster on your way back), you’ll want to make a quick stop at the Refugio again. Maybe buy some more food if you’ve already gone through your 5 day stack on the first day…

After that, start the hike for “campamento Italiano”, which has a free camp site!

Day 3 – Los Cuernos

You wake up in the morning, probably later then you wanted to and get yourself ready for a amazing uphill walk to the nearby viewpoint. Watch out with the strong wind and wear some sunglasses to protect your eyes. After about 3 hours you’ll be at the viewpoint and it’s quite ta surprise that you can see many different kinds of landscapes. From glaciers to lakes, to forests and waterfalls.

Then it’s time to make your way back to camp Italiano and to take down your tent if you haven’t already done so in the morning. Have some lunch and leave for the next camp site named “Los Cuernos”.

This hike is one of the easiest ones. You’ll get there in about 2 hours and during the walk you’ll pass a pretty little beach where you must take a look-a-like “W with your feet” photo and send it to me!

When you arrive at the camp site of Los Cuernos you’ll find a refugio with a restaurant. I guess this is the time when happy campers are allowed to spoil themselves with a decent meal and a bottle of wine! Although, I have to say our own cooked meals were heaps more satisfying 🙂

Day 4 – Los Torres

Sign says:
Watch out, Rolling stones!

After you have taken down the tent again start your 4th day hike to refugio Chileno. That’s where you’ll want to go first via the shortcut (follow the signs saying shortcut), because you can allow yourself to have a beer over there! Don’t hang around too long though, you still need to walk for an hour or two until you reach campamento “Los Torres”.

Day 5 – early birds

This is what you came for. Another amazing sunrise at a beautiful place. There is just one thing… you’ll need to wake up at about 4am. Yes I know, but definitely worth it, so just do it!

I am not a morning person at all, but luckily my camp buddies kind of dragged me along the route, which is only uphill in the dark. Prepare a head torch or anything that can give you some light during the hike. We had one light for the three of us, which was doable, but it’s better to have more! The good thing is that more people will be walking behind and possibly in front of you carrying some light too.

Also, bring your sleeping bag. You’ll want to sit up at los torres for a while and it can get quite chilly. Got that one? Chilly in Chile 😉 Ah sorry, I’ve been hearing this every day. Anyway, once you’re up there, take off your shoes and sit in your sleeping bag watching the sunrise. Hopefully you won’t have to much clouds so that you get a clear view of the Torres del Paine. I couldn’t see them in the morning, but later on the sky cleared up.

What do you need during the “W”?

Food. A lot of food! Well, in my case more then a lot, because I’m a hungry person. Then comes clothes. Bring an extra pair of socks in case you step into a puddle of mud (as I did…) and some fresh undies. One pair of hiking trousers and maybe some shorts would be good since your legs might get quite hot during the walk. Bring any kind of top, a sweater, and maybe something extra warm for in the evening for when your sitting still at your campsite and cooking food.

Here is the list of things I brought to the W trek. Do keep in mind that the food was shared amongst three persons.

Camp gear:

• tent
• sleeping bag
• sleeping mat
• cooking gear
• head light (for the morning hike up to the torres before sunrise)
• Camping gas
• Soap (for cleaning your cooking gear)

Food:

• bag of carrots
• 10 bars of chocolate (break them into pieces)
• nuts
• dried raisins
• wine gums
• one box of tea bags
• 8 sachets of coffee
• bag of oats
• bag of milk powder
• dried Chorizo
• little bag of cheese for your pasta
• Ravioli
• Rice
• soup powder (used for pasta sauce)

*It’s good to have some zip-lock bags and put the chocolate, nuts, wine gums and dried fruits in there as your lunch for during the trip. Maybe use a smaller zip-lock bag to take some out of the bigger bag everyday and make yourself a lunch-bag.

Lunch

Breakfast

Diner

Something extra

We wanted to be able to enjoy a drink in the evening after having set up camp, so we brought some booze along! Since you don’t want to be carrying around those heavy bottles of glass, just buy some plastic water bottles and pour your favorite drink into these.

I have been doubting for a couple of days before actually saying yes to this hike, because I was afraid it could be a waste of time. Ah, another mountain. Well, I was so wrong! After all I decided to do the “W” with two friends who I met in Latin-America and it was really fantastic. The scenery is magnificent, even if you’ve been to those great National parks in the United States or if you’re living in the Alps or such. I was amazed every single day and together with the fun camping experience, a healthy exercise every day with lovely nature and good company I have to admit I’d love to do it again!

Put the “W” on your bucket list and if you’re already in the surroundings of El Calafate, Chalten or anywhere else in Patagonia and you’ve got no plans for next week then now you know what you’ve got to do.

About Renate Rigters

Ever since I left my home country I felt at home at any other place I went to. I enjoy getting to know more cultures by talking to strangers and hearing their philosophy about life. Speaking with gestures when you can not find a shared language, finding places only the locals go to and learn about their customs and values. Hanging out with local people makes me happy. The experience of every new place is a step out of your comfort zone where I like to wander around until it feels like a second home.

• Mail
|
• Web
|
• Twitter
|
• Facebook
|
• More Posts(369)